One of the first things you’ll hear when you’re repairing your skin barrier is to stop using exfoliants, especially chemical exfoliants. That’s because exfoliants can sometimes strip your skin too much or too deeply, leaving your skin barrier depleted. But if you’ve heard of lactobionic acid serum, you know that it’s a more gentle exfoliating option, a lot gentler than typical chemical exfoliators. So is it safe to use lactobionic acid serum during barrier repair?
To Exfoliate or Not to Exfoliate?
When you’re repairing a damaged skin barrier, especially if you’re dealing with acute damage with actively peeling skin, then the golden rule is: don’t exfoliate at all. Your goal is to stop exfoliating completely for 2 to 4 weeks, giving your skin a chance to heal. During this time, you’ll want to load up on hydrating and repairing ingredients like ceramides and cica. Only once your skin has started healing can you exfoliate safely without setting your repair process timeline back.
But if your skin barrier is only mildly stripped or it’s already started healing nicely, very gentle exfoliation might be safe. Then, exfoliation can be helpful in clearing away the dead cells that cause dull skin, rough texture, and clogged pores. To keep the exfoliation super gentle during the barrier repair process, using a serum with lactobionic acid is a great idea.
What is Lactobionic Acid, and Why Is It Better?
Lactobionic acid is chemically derived from lactose, the sugar that’s found in milk. (It won’t trigger milk allergies as it’s been synthesized or isolated in skincare products.)
It’s called a polyhydroxy acid, or PHAs. If you’ve heard of PHAs you probably know that these are considered a lot gentler than typical skincare acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid (which is not made of lactose despite the similarity in the name.) These typical skincare acids are called alpha-hydroxy acids or AHAs. There’s also beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid, called BHAs. Lactobionic acid is far milder than these.
There are three characteristics that set lactobionic acid apart:
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It has a larger molecular structure. Bigger pieces take a longer time to penetrate the skin, and they don’t penetrate too deeply. Because it stays mostly on the surface, there’s less worry about the acid stripping the skin barrier, which is below the skin surface.
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Unlike other exfoliators, lactobionic acid is a humectant, which means that it helps water bind to the skin while it exfoliates. That means that instead of stripping moisture from the skin, it actually helps the skin hold onto its moisture.
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Lactobionic acid also provides mild antioxidants, which can help reduce your skin’s oxidative stress.
Thanks to these specific characteristics and others, lactobionic acid stands out as a great choice for a gentle exfoliator on skin healing from barrier damage.
Best Practices for Non-Irritating Exfoliation
If you’ve decided to use lactobionic acid serum to exfoliate your skin while you’re finishing up barrier repair, here’s how you can keep it gentle and non-irritating.
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Exfoliation Aspect |
Recommendation |
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Frequency |
Start by using it once or twice a week at most. Do not use it daily. |
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Formulation |
Look for low concentrations (under 5–10%) combined with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin. |
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Application |
Apply to dry skin after cleansing. Then, follow with a rich barrier-repair cream to seal in moisture. |
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Avoid Stacking |
Never combine it in the same routine with retinoids or other strong chemical exfoliants. |
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Patch Test |
Test a small amount on a non-visible skin surface for 24 hours before applying it to your face. |
Which Exfoliator Should I Use?
You’ve decided to exfoliate, and you know how to make sure to do it gently. Now you need an exfoliator whose ingredients will be as gentle to your compromised skin as possible.
Valmont LumiPeel is the perfect choice for you. It has the PHA lactobionic acid you’re looking for, plus natural enzymes from prickly pear and papaya that help clean your skin’s surface. While your skin barrier is still healing, you’ll want to use this once or twice a week. But when your skin barrier is already fully healed, you’ll enjoy using this watery lotion every day to help bring out your skin’s natural glow.
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Valmont LumiPeel
$160.00
